We left out of San Juan Puerto Rico and crossed the Sargasso sea and the
abysmal plain to our first station for the last NAAMES cruise. Here
the North Atlantic is our mistress and her secrets we will explore. As
ships crew we find ourselves in some of the most remote locations on this
pale blue dot and few are more remote feeling than the desolate ocean
between Newfoundland and the Azores.
A tumult of rough seas and blustery storms being blown down from the
Arctic. Here is where we will settle in for the next twelve days, here is
where the science happens.
The R/V Atlantis cruising across the North Atlantic Ocean
I am always amazed at the orchestration of these multi platform trips, as
it is beyond difficult to get every piece of gear and every person at a
start point let alone an end.
We live in close proximity for nearly thirty days at a time with a lack of
sleep and long hours but we do it together and we do it for a cause bigger
than our creature comforts. A fact that helps me sleep well at night.
NAAAMES is personally one of my favorite trips and it isn’t for the cold
winds or the confused seas, it is for the crew of people, determined to do
something amazing, coming together as a family. It is my fourth trip out
here and I can safely say that they are in fact family now and could even
pass as ships crew themselves.
Derek Coffman (in front) and other members of the NAAMES scientific crew on the bow of the R/V Atlantis.
Written by Ronnie Whims
Settling in
It is day four aboard the R/V Atlantis where scientists (and wildlife) alike are beginning to settle into our expedition through the vast North Atlantic. Everyone seems to be adjusting to ship life and finding a routine. It didn’t take too long for me to accept this as my new life for 26 days. It is easy to forget about the rest of the world while at sea. Out here, it is just you and your work, the others on the ship, the sea, and a few seabirds.
Even the phytoplankton have been seemingly absent as we sail through the clear, sapphire water of the Sargasso Sea. This isn’t too surprising because this area of the ocean is generally nutrient-limited, so many of the larger phytoplankton groups we are interested in are not able to grow well in this region, resulting in very clear, deep blue water. This should provide an interesting comparison as we continue northward towards more productive waters.
Under the warm, sunny skies of the past few days, the water has been very inviting, like a siren it beckons us to jump in for a swim; but of course doing a swan dive off the ship would be a terrible idea. Although we are busy with sampling and measurements, we take every chance we get to soak up the warm sunshine on deck because it probably won’t last much longer. On the outside decks, our stowaway wildlife celebrity, Herbert (named by Nick H.), the Brown Booby (Sula leucogaster) has been with us since Puerto Rico. Herbert can be found resting on the upper decks of the ship or flying along side the ship catching flying fish, and loves to pose for photos.
The stowaway wildlife celebrity, Herbert (named by Nick H.), a Brown Booby (Sula leucogaster) that has on board the R/V Atlantis since it left Puerto Rico.
Aside from a quick two night trip on the R/V Atlantic Explorer a couple of years ago, this is my first long research cruise. Some of my friends have been on previous NAAMES cruises and have come back with fantastic stories of their experiences, so when I was asked to join, I was extremely excited to participate. I am also very thankful to both Chief Scientist Mike Behrenfeld and my professor, Kim Halsey, for inviting me to be a part of the NAAMES expedition, it has been, and will continue to be the experience of a lifetime. Being surrounded by other scientists who have similar research interests has been the best part. So far, I’ve really enjoyed getting to know all of the wonderful people that are a part of this team. From interesting conversations in the lab, to socializing during the sunset sing-alongs on the bow of the ship, and of course, doing work that I am passionate about, this has been an amazing adventure so far.
Another beautiful sunset aboard the R/V Atlantis
Written by Eric Moore
Rookies at sea
Laura and I come from different geographical backgrounds. I grew up in the hot Mediterranean climate and Laura experienced the rainy climate of northern France. For our next adventure, we were both called to sea for the same purpose: Science. We are not talking about your average kind of research, but what we believe is the most exciting kind: studying ocean-atmosphere coupling onboard of a fully equipped oceanography research vessel: The R/V Atlantis. For us, this is reminiscent of the famous sea explorer and scientist, Jean Jacques Cousteau. To celebrate the end of our gruesome PhDs, we are going to spend the next twenty-five days in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean (aka, in the middle of nowhere) with land nowhere in sight. What a thrilling start of our scientific careers!
As we are writing this blog, our ship is steadily heading at twelves knots over calm and rough waters to reach the northern Atlantic Ocean. It is there that a beautiful annual phytoplankton bloom is starting. In a restricted environment, one would think that this adventure could be overwhelming and overcrowded. But veterans’ tips, everybody’s involvement and their welcoming attitude led to a smooth transition from land to sea. It is also impressive to watch all members follow their daily patterns which look like a beautifully orchestrated dance amid chaotic waves and winds.
As newbies to the sea, we discovered that the periodic rocking of the ship leads to a state of comatose, distracting us from our true purpose; to report hourly that all instruments are working. Luckily, great company (and a few role playing games), (amazing) food, and strong coffee kept us, so far, “sane”.
During the transit there is a little time for some fun role playing games. Her murder on the R/V Atlantis: (top) Georges hangs while Laura casually reads “Generation Kill”. (bottom) a few moments later, Laura faces the same fate.
The atmosphere-ocean boundary looks infinite from our vantage point and one might mistake it for simple. Yet the biology that lays beneath the water could affect the physical and chemical properties of tiny particles, created by the breaking of waves, that are lofted into the atmosphere. These particles are too small to be seen by the naked eye but play an important (yet uncertain) role on our climate; aerosols are the seeds on which clouds form. It’s not every day that an expedition of such magnitude happens, but when it did, we were not afraid to get wet.
Written by Georges Saliba and Laura-Helena Rivellini
Microcosm
It was the best of times and it was the worst of times. 26 days. 26 days with 200 mb of data per day. 26 days with no social media. 26 days without seeing land. 26 days without ever having to make a meal or clean dishes. A cruise is a marathon in which you are marveling at the most beautiful sunset you’ve ever seen with friends in one moment and in the next you are desperately working on an instrument at 3 a.m. equipped exclusively with the tools on hand and manuals that you brought. These are two experiences that I am intimately acquainted with, however I won’t inflict upon you an image of what I look like running on two hours of sleep!
(from left to right) Bryce, Brianna, and Savannah (me) enjoying the calm before the storm… rather the calm before Hurricane Jose during NAAMES 3.
NAAMES is the first field campaign that I have participated in and I had no idea what life would be like living on a ship for 26 days. How do you pack for it? Will they provide blankets and pillows? How can you plan to feed 60 people for 26 days? In case you were wondering, the answers are: layers, don’t forget your chargers, they do provide bedding, and I still have no idea but it is an incredible feat. While there are a myriad of practical decisions that must be made in regards to the science aspect that one can prepare for, the personal experience of living within 273 feet of 60 people for 26 days is something that is hard to accurately describe. However, I won’t let that stop me from trying.
I am on an opposite schedule of my bunk mate, so I wake up within the range of 1:45 -4:50 a.m. everyday. I set out my clothes every night so that I can quietly slip into new clothes, brush my teeth, and put on sunscreen all without ever turning a light on. There is always someone awake and working within the ship, but in the early mornings, greetings are mostly left to cordial grunts on the way to coffee. As time goes on, small rituals begin to develop due to the close proximity. This is my second NAAMES cruise and several of the graduate students have a religious attendance to two events that we created during the last cruise: coffee club and sunset sing-alongs. In addition to being fans of alliteration, we are able to have a communal time in discussing not only anecdotal stories, but about our science. There are a wide variety of fields that work together for the NAAMES cruises and it’s vital for the atmospheric scientists, biologists, ecologists, etc. to compare data and speak the same language, so to speak. These casual meetings have greatly enhanced my understanding of the complex biological interactions that are occurring, and I have helped others understand the atmospheric data that my group is analyzing.
(from left to right) Cleo, Savannah, Brianna, and Sean enjoying the sunset before loudly singing ‘My Heart Will Go On’ by Celine Dion on the bow of the ship.
What is life like on the ship? Generally, no one wastes data on the news, so we make our own little world that revolves around phytoplankton and food. In a world full of chaos and uncertainty, for a short 26 days, we can live in a small isolated world of friends, food, and incredible science.
Written by Savannah Lewis
Sunset aboard the R/V Atlantis
As the sun begins to dip below the horizon, the dulcet tones of Celine Dion join the cacophony of the crashing waves and whipping wind. The multicolor sky provides a picturesque backdrop for the momentous drum solo performed by none other than Bri Hendrickson. For some of us, sunset sing-alongs occur nightly on board the R/V Atlantis. Few moments on the boat offer such a cathartic experience. For a few brief moments, nothing else matters except the vast ocean in front of you and the sheer freedom of singing to the world’s largest audience: the ocean.
These sing-alongs are just one example of bonding on the boat. Science may be the reason for our month on the sea, but the moments between frantic operations are where the friendships form and life-long relationships and collaborations are solidified. Sunset sing-along is one of those moments that truly transformed some of us from colleagues to friends. After belting out “My Heart Will Go On” on the bow of the boat for weeks straight, you have little reservations left. Coffee club is another experience that draws people together. Multiple groups devote time to come together and drink this highly precious liquid. Some groups even bring their own espresso machines to up the ante. These creature comforts bring us all together, especially due to our close proximity on the ship.
These bonding moments are crucial when living together with an assortment of people from all over the country and world. Large projects such as NAAMES bring together such a diverse group of people with one major commonality: a burning desire to know more. Conversations run the gamut from directly related to the project to life stories that serve to only enrich our already diverse team. One strength of this project is our inherent diversity – both scientific and individual diversity. NAAMES incorporates biologists, chemists, journalists, and these are merely our careers. Cramming 30 people into a 300-foot shop sounds daunting, but I promise you that life on this moving ‘island’ is everything you can imagine and more.
NAAMES 4 has just begun, but these traditions live on strong. Though I may be a newer addition to the group, it is clear that the seasoned participants have their own traditions that make a month on a ship a little less intimidating. Sunset sing-alongs have been a memorable aspect of the NAAMES cruises for me, but I am sure that we can all think of our one thing that keeps us smiling here on the boat. When the NAAMES campaigns come to an end in a month, these moments will be the intangible keepsakes we all take away from the ship and hold onto for a lifetime
Written by Bryce Penta
